Years of reporting on Syria, the highway to Damascus and the autumn of al-Assad | Syria’s Struggle

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I’ve coated Syria for years, from the beginning – when anti-regime protests started in March 2011.

We have been in Deraa, southern Syria. It was a Friday and other people known as it the “Day of Dignity”. They took to the streets to protest the deaths of dozens of individuals killed by safety forces in earlier days.

Demonstrations started due to the detention and torture of youngsters for spray-painting anti-Assad graffiti on the wall of their college.

It was nearly unthinkable in Syria – a tightly managed nation the place folks have been afraid to utter any phrase towards the regime.

But “sufficient is sufficient” was what I heard time and time once more. Different phrases that folks stored chanting have been “justice and freedom”. The Arab Spring had reached Syria.

13 years later I discovered myself again on the Omari Mosque in Deraa, the epicentre of the protest motion – the place the euphoria was palpable. The regime had collapsed; the al-Assad dynasty had ended.

I didn’t imagine I used to be again.

The highway to Damascus

December 8, 4am: We made our manner from Beirut to the Masnaa border with Syria as a result of reviews have been coming in that Damascus had fallen. After we reached the crossing lower than two hours later, we noticed Syrians celebrating the information. Some have been even making ready to make their manner again residence.

I had no thought we’d be capable to enter Syria that morning. I didn’t know whether or not the Lebanese border authorities would enable us in or what could be ready for us on the opposite aspect. Have been regime forces nonetheless stationed on the border? Would the opposition fighters welcome us?

I contacted a pal in Deraa who was an opposition activist. I requested him if he may meet us on the Syrian aspect of the border and take us to Damascus. “I want an hour,” he instructed me.

We crossed the border when it opened at 8am. It’s a 40-minute drive to the centre of what was Bashar al-Assad’s seat of energy. The final time I drove this highway was in 2011.

As we made our solution to the central Umayyad Sq., we noticed folks tearing down the symbols of the regime. Deserted tanks have been left on the freeway, military uniforms strewn alongside the roadsides.

The streets weren’t crowded, but; folks have been nonetheless at residence, afraid, nonetheless uncertain what they have been coping with.

We drove to Umayad Sq.. I wanted to pinch myself to imagine that I used to be truly there.

Celebratory gunfire was almost nonstop. The opposition fighters have been from throughout Syria. They too regarded shocked. However the feeling you bought was that they have been respiration once more.

That first reside from Umayyad Sq.

It was time to do our job … to broadcast these pictures to the world. I feel we have been among the many first worldwide journalists within the sq. that morning.

However we had main communication points. I managed to ship just a few video clips from my cellphone to the information desk in Doha however we couldn’t broadcast reside.

Syrian state TV was situated at Umayyad Sq.. I requested the opposition fighters who have been guarding the constructing if that they had any means to assist us. “You need to assist us,” I instructed them.

They didn’t know find out how to function the satellite tv for pc truck in order that they started to seek for the staff. An hour or so later an engineer confirmed as much as work and helped us report reside about historical past within the making.

It was nearly surreal that we used the assets of a channel that for many years was utilized by a regime to regulate the narrative – to inform the world that there’s a new Syria.

The atrocities, and false hope

The regime fell and the key doorways opened. Prisoners have been let out by opposition fighters however there have been many others nonetheless lacking.

For years I reported concerning the enforced disappearances in Syria, the illegal and arbitrary arrests by safety forces, and the struggling of the victims’ households. We had spoken to them, to human rights legal professionals, and to activists for therefore a few years.

After which I discovered myself in Sednaya Jail. The story was in entrance of us. It was actual.

There have been hundreds of individuals making their solution to the detention facility, which was on high of a steep hill. They walked for nearly three kilometres (two miles). Everybody had the identical story – they got here within the hope of discovering a beloved one. They got here from throughout Syria.

It was Day Two since Damascus was “liberated”. Those that have been contained in the jail, believed to be just a few hundred, have been let out.

The place are the others?

Greater than 100,000, based on Syrian human rights teams, are unaccounted for.

We watched their households – fathers, brothers, moms, wives, and sisters – hold on to false hope.

There have been rumours of secret chambers and hidden cells underground, despite the fact that a White Helmet civil defence volunteer instructed us that was not true. “We checked the entire space.”

“Then why are you continue to digging?” I requested him.

“Can’t you see them? How determined they’re … Now we have to do one thing even whether it is false hope … only for them.”

Households have been studying each paper they might discover hoping to seek out any clue.

There was none on this pitch-black jail apart from the unimaginable horrors in what folks there instructed us was the “execution room”.

As we made our manner again to the automobile, extra folks have been arriving.

“Did they discover anyone? Did they discover anyone?” they’d ask us.

If the useless may communicate

Extra doorways had opened since Bashar al-Assad’s rule got here to an finish. Mass graves have been being unearthed.

We have been instructed there have been many within the city of Qutayfa, north of Damascus. After years of silence and worry, locals started to talk out.

Amongst them was the city’s graveyard caretaker who instructed us he prayed over dozens of our bodies that safety forces buried there in 2012. One other man instructed us that the regime’s males used his bulldozers and equipment to dig graves.

“Sure, I watched them dump the our bodies that have been in refrigerated vehicles contained in the graves however we couldn’t speak or else we’d be killed as nicely,” he instructed us.

He confirmed us the place. We have been standing on a mass grave.

Stand and bear witness

It wasn’t the primary time I reported on regime atrocities in Syria. In 2013 in Aleppo, we watched Syrians within the opposition-controlled east of the town take away dozens of our bodies from the river that flowed from government-held areas on greater floor.

They’d gunshot wounds to their heads and their fingers tied. We then watched kin attempt to determine them in a college courtyard.

I had problem sleeping that evening. I additionally had problem sleeping after visiting Sednaya Jail.

I attempted to place myself of their sneakers and thought: “How is it attainable to reside all these years not figuring out the place your beloved is, to think about the torture they went by and to see the execution room, to face in the identical room … after which think about what they needed to undergo?”

We are able to’t change what occurred. We are able to solely doc historical past and hope the victims and their households will sooner or later discover peace, justice and accountability.

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